Brand attitude Archivi | FABIO PANZERI

The Male Skirt: A Welcome Return in a World of Short-Sighted Amnesiacs

While some self-proclaimed moralists wrinkle their noses and others cry scandal, reality – with a capital “R” – tells a very different story: the skirt, or more precisely the tunic, has always been a male garment. And we are not talking about modern eccentricities but centuries upon centuries of history, where kings, emperors, warriors, and even popes proudly donned garments that today would horrify those who claim to be guardians of “good taste.” From Antiquity to the Present: The Story of a Paradox Consider Ancient Rome: senators and emperors wore the toga, a garment that, in shape and fluidity, was not much different from a skirt. Gladiators fought in arenas wearing a kind of leather and metal kilt, while Greek warriors sported the chiton, a long or short garment depending on rank and function. Not to mention medieval rulers, often draped in richly decorated tunics, or popes, whose liturgical vestments are, in effect, long robes that challenge any rigid gender-based fashion norms. And what about Scotland? Here, the tradition of the kilt continues undisturbed: a garment that not only embodies a sense of belonging to a clan but also symbolizes strength and national pride. Strange, isn’t it? If a man wears a skirt in Edinburgh, he is a proud Scot; if he does so in Milan, it’s seen as a provocation. The Era of Prejudice and Short Memories Today, the return of the male skirt in contemporary fashion has sparked reactions ranging from skepticism to hysteria. From the runways of major designers to the streets of fashion capitals, the garment is making a comeback with a naturalness that, truthfully, should not even be newsworthy. Yet, amid snide comments and smirks, an embarrassing reality emerges: our society, so convinced of its modernity and openness, is actually trapped in narrow-minded thinking. Some dismiss the choice of a skirt as an act of rebellion, others illogically associate it with sexual orientation, and some rush to label it as a fleeting whim. But behind these judgments lies profound historical ignorance: if an emperor’s tunic was a symbol of power, why should a skirt today be seen as a sign of weakness? If the kilt represents pride and tradition, why should a modern variation be perceived as a provocation? Conclusion: The Problem Is Not the Skirt, but Who Looks at It Ultimately, the male skirt is simply a return to historical normality, an innovation that innovates nothing but rather corrects a long-standing cultural misunderstanding. Perhaps the real issue is not the wearer but the one who judges it superficially. And if someone feels threatened by a piece of fabric, maybe it’s time to ask who is truly fragile: the one wearing it or the one fearing it.

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BRANDING VS MARKETING:

Brand attitude / Fabio Panzeri / Dicembre 9, 2024

Branding vs Marketing: Why Branding Is the True Strength in a Rapidly Changing World In today’s landscape, defined by relentless change and saturation of content, one crucial question emerges: what sets a lasting brand apart from a fleeting one? The answer lies in branding. While marketing can drive sales and capture attention, branding is what builds relationships, fosters communities, and ensures long-term relevance. But there’s more. The flattening of contemporary design has exacerbated the importance of marketing, often turning it into a compensatory strategy to fill the void left by a lack of identity or belonging. This phenomenon is particularly evident in the luxury sector, where the race toward marketing strategies has overshadowed what truly makes a brand iconic: its intrinsic value. Branding as the Foundation Branding is far more than a logo or visual aesthetic. It’s the very essence of a brand—its story, values, and purpose. It’s how a brand communicates who it is and why it exists, forging deep emotional connections with consumers. In a world where everything changes rapidly, branding offers stability and a sense of belonging, critical elements for fostering loyalty and building communities. Branding transforms a product into a symbol, a choice into a personal statement. Through branding, consumers choose a brand not just for what it offers but for what it stands for. Marketing as a Short-Term Push Marketing, on the other hand, is a more tactical tool designed to drive sales and gain visibility in the short term. While it’s essential for promoting products and expanding reach, marketing alone cannot create lasting connections. When overemphasis is placed on marketing strategies, the risk is that the brand loses authenticity, reducing itself to chasing fleeting trends. This issue becomes even more pronounced when there’s no solid branding foundation: without a clear identity or meaningful message, marketing only amplifies the void, making the lack of emotional connection with consumers even more apparent. The Flattening of Design and the Crisis of Luxury One of the most troubling aspects of today’s market is the flattening of design. Many brands, to stay competitive, have sacrificed aesthetic innovation in favour of standardized and universally accessible trends. This approach, rather than strengthening a brand’s identity, weakens it, stripping it of its uniqueness. In the luxury sector, where design should be the cornerstone, this homogenization has created a void. When products no longer stand out for their intrinsic quality or ability to evoke emotions, brands increasingly rely on marketing to stay relevant. Yet no marketing campaign, however aggressive, can replace what is missing in the product itself: a sense of belonging and the ability to tell a story that resonates with its audience. Branding and Belonging: The Key to Success A well-designed product, supported by a strong brand identity and a loyal community, can thrive without depending on overblown marketing strategies. Consider iconic brands that have built their success on branding: their value lies not only in the quality of their products but in the meaning they represent for those who choose them. Branding creates culture, a movement. It’s what turns consumers into brand ambassadors, generating an impact that goes beyond the sale. Building a community is not just an objective but a necessity in an era where consumers want to feel part of something bigger. A Reflection on the Future of Luxury The luxury sector, in particular, must take a step back to move forward. It must rediscover the power of branding as a tool for building authentic and lasting connections. Chasing marketing as a short-term fix risks eroding a brand’s value, turning luxury into a mere category of consumption instead of an aspirational experience. Conclusion In a rapidly changing world, branding is what ensures longevity and relevance. It is the foundation on which to build a brand that not only survives but thrives. Marketing can sell a product, but branding creates relationships, belonging, and, ultimately, a legacy. If we envision a future where brands are more than just tools for selling, we must return to the roots of branding—the importance of telling authentic stories and creating products that inspire deep connections. Because in the end, branding is not just a strategy; it is the key to building something timeless.

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THE JAGUAR CASE…

Brand attitude / Fabio Panzeri / Novembre 29, 2024

The End of an Era: Jaguar’s Identity in Crisis We are witnessing the end of an era for Jaguar—a brand once synonymous with elegance and sophistication, now lost in a misguided attempt at reinvention. The new logo is emblematic of this identity crisis; a logo should communicate its essence instantly, but if it requires lengthy explanations, the customer is already gone. This fundamental principle appears to have been ignored by the responsible design studio, who also seem to have overlooked Jaguar’s legacy, iconic vehicles, and the emotional connection tied to its history. While we haven’t yet seen the new vehicle designs, the logo suggests a troubling future: generic, overpriced city cars overloaded with tech and garish colour palettes. If this isn’t the case, and the vehicles fail to align with the branding, the chaos will only deepen, revealing a complete lack of vision. Jaguar, once a beacon of refinement, is now adrift—grasping for relevance in ways that betray its heritage rather than build upon it. This isn’t bold; it’s destructive. The Jaguar Identity Crisis: Bold or Blunder? Jaguar, long celebrated for its elegance, performance, and timeless design finds itself at a crossroads. What should have been a natural evolution of its storied legacy has instead become a puzzling detour. In its pursuit of reinvention, Jaguar’s design language has shed its identity, trading sleek, feline-inspired lines for disjointed forms that feel more forced than forward-thinking. This misguided attempt at modernity, aimed at disrupting the luxury market, comes across as desperate—alienating loyalists while failing to captivate a new audience. The shift highlights a troubling trend: the thin line between bold reinvention and reckless experimentation. True disruption builds on a foundation of heritage and innovation, yet Jaguar’s current direction risks erasing its essence. It’s not too late for the brand to course-correct, rediscovering the refinement and sophistication that made it iconic. In a world of fleeting trends, Jaguar must remember that true luxury lies in timelessness. Jaguar, a brand synonymous with elegance, performance, and timeless design, is in a peculiar moment of transformation. What should have been an evolution of its storied legacy has taken a puzzling detour—a restyling that raises more questions than it answers. A Disruptive Vision Gone Awry In its pursuit of reinvention, Jaguar’s design language has veered into uncharted territory, shedding its identity in favour of a style that feels disjointed and out of sync with its heritage. What was once a brand that effortlessly balanced tradition with innovation now seems trapped in a vision that is neither disruptive nor forward-thinking, but simply destructive. From Grace to Chaos Jaguar, long celebrated for its elegance, performance, and timeless design finds itself at a crossroads. What should have been a natural evolution of its storied legacy has instead become a puzzling detour. The new logo and design language seem more akin to a high-end accessory brand, oddly reminiscent of a well-known luxury appliance maker, with strikingly similar aesthetic and chromatic choices. In its pursuit of reinvention, Jaguar has shed its identity, trading sleek, feline-inspired lines for disjointed forms that feel more forced than forward-thinking. This misguided attempt at modernity, aimed at disrupting the luxury market, comes across as desperate—alienating loyalists while failing to captivate a new audience. The shift highlights a troubling trend: the thin line between bold reinvention and reckless experimentation. True disruption builds on a foundation of heritage and innovation, yet Jaguar’s current direction risks erasing its essence entirely. It’s not too late for the brand to course-correct, rediscovering the refinement and sophistication that made it iconic. In a world of fleeting trends, Jaguar must remember that true luxury lies in timelessness. The Pursuit of “Modernity” In the race to appear futuristic and edgy, Jaguar seems to have forgotten what made it special. The design cues that once whispered sophistication now shout desperation. The attempt to disrupt the luxury market has left the brand with a fragmented identity that alienates loyalists while failing to captivate a new audience. The Thin Line Between Bold and Reckless Disruption can be powerful when executed with purpose. However, Jaguar’s current trajectory feels less like bold reinvention and more like reckless experimentation. In chasing trends and attempting to redefine itself, Jaguar risks becoming unrecognizable—a shadow of its former self. A Call for Reflection It’s not too late for Jaguar to course-correct. The brand must return to its roots, embracing the elegance and refinement that made it an icon. Innovation should complement heritage, not erase it. Jaguar doesn’t need to shout to be heard—it needs to rediscover its voice. In a world of fleeting trends, true luxury lies in timelessness. Jaguar’s future depends on its ability to remember this simple truth.

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